How to clean an external filter
Are you the proud new owner of an external filter that needs little cleaning? Since owning one of these, I have been asked on multiple occasions, “how often do you clean an external filter?” Most of the time it comes from people who have never owned a tank before or who are looking to switch to a different type. Keeping a clean aquarium is something that I consider necessary and vital for the health of your beloved fish. Since I am a fan of clean tanks, I want to share this “how to” with you so that you too can maintain a clean tank.
What you will need to clean your canister filter
Here’s a short list of what you’ll need when it’s time to get down and dirty with your filter.
- Toothbrush to scrub off algae
- Scouring pad to scrub off stubborn algae
- Sink or high pressure hose to wash as best you can
- Hyssop
- Towel
- clean work space
- Aquarium water bucket (optional)
Let’s Do It: How To Clean An External Filter
Now I am going to explain how to clean an external filter. This method can work for many different models, more specifically the hydor 450 model, but if you need to know how to clean a Dyson external filter or how to clean a Marineland external filter, check the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 1 – Turn off the filter
The first thing you’ll want to do before you touch anything else is turn off the filter. Unplug it from the outlet and check the outlet tube. If no water comes out, it is safe to continue to the next step.
Step 2: Turn off the shutoff valves
Once you have unplugged the filter and there is no more water in the tube, turn the shut-off valves horizontally and place them in the “off” position. This prevents water from spilling when disconnecting the tubes from the motor housing.
Step 3 – Unscrew the Tubes
Gradually turn the threaded tube lock nut until it loosens. Water trapped in the motor housing will come out, so be prepared. It won’t be a lot of water, but once it’s out you can set the pipes aside.
Step 4 – Transport the Filter
This step requires you to transport the filter to an area where you are not afraid of getting a little wet. I would do this in the kitchen sink or outside near a hose. You will need pressurized water. I personally like to do this in my sink so I don’t have to carry the filter too far from where it belongs.
Step 5: Remove the motor housing
To do this, you will need to release the latches on all four sides to remove the case. Again, some water may spill, but that’s okay. Carefully remove the casing and set it aside. To best prepare for this, take a towel and place it around the filter. If more water spills than expected, the towel will catch it before it can flood your counters.
Pro Tip: Let any remaining water drain from the housing to prevent spills and puddles on countertops.
Step 6: remove the casings
To do this, you will need to release the latches on all four sides to remove the case. Again, a little water may spill, but that’s okay. Carefully remove the casing and set it aside. To best prepare for this, take a towel and place it around the filter. If more water spills than expected, the towel will catch it before it can flood your counters.
Pro Tip: Let any remaining water drain from the housing to prevent spills and puddles on countertops.
For this step, you need to remove everything in your filter except the trays that hold your biological media. These should remain submerged in water while you clean the rest of the filter. This prevents the loss of beneficial bacteria needed by your fish. Keep these items close to you, as you will need to put them back very quickly.
Step 7: Time to clean
Using your sink or hose, rinse out the media trays you removed and clean them thoroughly with an old toothbrush or scouring pad. This will remove all that gross, slimy algae from everything. Filter pads also need a good cleaning. Grab your high-power hose or sink faucet and give them a good rinse. This will not affect the beneficial bacteria in your tank, as the carcass is what contains the bacteria.
Step 8: Impeller Removal
Very carefully remove the impeller from the motor housing. You can’t be rough with it because the pottery store is extremely brittle and can be easily broken. You can then carefully clean the impeller. I have broken impellers before while cleaning them because they are so brittle. Fortunately, you can get replacements almost anywhere that sells aquarium supplies.
Step 9: Clean the Impeller
This is a vital step because not doing so can affect the performance of your filter and possibly damage the engine due to resistance caused by dirt on the impeller. You should also clean the plastic parts around the impeller, including the shaft. I would use the toothbrush for this step. A scrub brush can put more pressure on the impeller and cause it to break.
Step 10: Clean Impeller Bore
This is another very important step. Take a cotton swab and place it in the hold that the impeller sits in. The sides of this hole can collect a lot of gunk, resulting in a bad impeller and a lack of performance in your filter. You wouldn’t believe the amount of debris I’ve gotten out of my canister filters before. It’s pretty nasty.
Step 11: Remove Biological Media Trays
For this step, pull out your biological media trays as quickly as you can and set them aside. You can place them in a bucket of aquarium water if you are afraid of losing their beneficial bacteria, but it is not necessary. Now you can discard all the water from the canister filter. Do not reuse this water.
Pro tip: MOVE FAST! Your beneficial bacteria can be lost because they are exposed to the air.
Step 12 – Cleaning the Bowl
If necessary, clean the canister filter by spraying some high pressure water and rinsing it again. You don’t want any kind of algae or debris left in your container after you clean it. You can also use your hand or a very clean cloth to wipe it down to make sure you have picked up all the slime and debris.
Step 13: Reassemble
Now you can start putting everything back into the canister filter as quickly as possible and lock the motor housing in place. You can then take the filter to the aquarium and screw the shut-off valves to the threaded tube of the motor housing.
Pro Tip: Don’t screw the pipes in too tightly, as this could damage them.
Step 14: Turn on the shutoff valves and fill
First, return the valves to the “on” position. Since there is air trapped inside, the container will not refill itself. The easiest way to do this without making a mess is to lift the front locking bracket and the bowl will begin to fill on its own. Make sure to keep an eye on the water level. As soon as it hits the motor housing, lock the bracket back in place.
Step 15: Plug It In
Lastly, plug the canister back in and prime with the top prime button several times. Make sure everything works as it should. If not, take it apart and make sure everything is in place. Make sure the plug and your hands are dry. We don’t want anyone getting electrocuted.
and there you have it
This concludes the «how to» to clean an external filter, I hope you enjoyed it. Keeping a fish tank clean is very important and ensures that your fish are healthy. I wouldn’t want to swim in my own filth all day, would I? We’d love to hear what you have to say in our comments section, and as always, please share with your aquarium-loving friends if you liked the tutorial!
If you are having trouble cleaning your aquarium hoses, you can refer to our instructions.